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Food, Family, and Connection

Everybody looks so ill at ease
So distrustful, so displeased
Running down the table
I see a borderline

These lines from Joni Mitchell’s song, “Borderline,” jumped out at me when I heard them on the car radio today. She released the song in 1994 – 30 years ago. (Listen here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoGXPPzWWTs)

The words brought to mind how difficult family dinners can sometimes be these days.    

Later, I read Alliah L. Agostini’s article, “Talk to kids about Juneteenth, and let food be your guide,” in the Food section of the Washington Post, where she describes how choosing and preparing the food for a meal can be one way into discussing difficult subjects with our children.

“Juneteenth’s origins are not a comfortable topic, nor should they be. They’re rooted in the prolonged end to American slavery, one of world history’s most profound human rights crises… Some adults try to avoid Juneteenth and other difficult topics with children because they don’t know what to say… Let’s lean into their inquisitiveness and focus the dialogue on why we eat what we eat.”  Ms. Agostini explains the connection between certain foods and recipes and the African diaspora, the history of enslavement, and Juneteenth tradition and culture.

“Part of Juneteenth education is arguably about keeping Black cookout culture and the barbecue culinary art form – developed by Indigenous people and adapted by enslaved African people – alive. The earliest Jubilee Days (the name “Juneteenth” was adopted later in the 19th century as a portmanteau of “June” and nineteenth”) were barbecue-centric gatherings where people wore their best clothes and enjoyed music and games.… Today, the soundtrack may be different but the essence of cookouts remains the same…”

Ms. Agostini also acknowledges that “Black America’s perceptions of the holiday are not monolithic. For some, it is empowering to celebrate a holiday that was created and sustained by formerly enslaved ancestors and their descendants. For others, the sheer injustice of Juneteenth’s origin of 900 days of delayed emancipation adds insult to injury.”

But instead of shying away from it, she suggests that families,  “start a conversation, make memories, learn together and enjoy tastes that tell a story of a holiday born out of awe-inspiring multigenerational resilience. It may not be comfortable but that’s okay. That’s where the food can also do its primary job. When you need to, just pause and take a bite.”

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